Saturday, 27 March 2010

Kit-tastic #2.3 - Bander Green leg brace


It isn't painful but without the brace the knee just twists so I can't stand up.

Nice bit of kit!

Thursday, 25 March 2010

Thursday - Bariloche to Pujon

Subtitle: V is for Volcano.

The morning started foggy as we drove out of Bariloche. The road climbed into the mountains until we reached the "Seven lakes drive", a dirt track past, you guessed it, seven lakes. Thick forest all around with steam rising where the warm sun hit the rich soil. We passed two hardy Brits who had ridden their push bikes from Ushuaia. How long? Two months. That's adventure.

Then out and down on good roads leading to the Chilean border post under the volcano. Every corner perfect for a bike but uninspiring in an aging 4X4. Just had to enjoy the scenery, the company and the cosmopolitan choice of music on the "Team Colombia" ipods.

D is for Dog


A dog is a mans best friend or so they say. I'm not so sure.

Argentinian dogs LOVE to chase motorbikes and have a taste for English ankles. So you are always ready with your feet to fend them off. This one had the body swerve of Tevez and the ruthless single mindedness of Maradona. Crossing in front of me to get to the other leg, he didn't see my front wheel about to cut him in two. I braked - front only (rear brake foot waving free to ward him off remember). Front wheel locked up. Waving foot went to the ground to stop the fall and...

The Spanish for Cruciate Ligament is easy to work out, but I didn't follow all the other details. Looks like I am going to be riding in the Land Cruiser for the rest of the trip. Massive thanks to Dani for translating at the hospital, to Sigi for cooking me dinner and to Bruce and crew for doing my restaurant review. Apparently it was excellent.

The most beautiful place in the world. Probably.


Bariloche is on a large lake which fills the valley. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountains. Some snow capped even now. In the lake small, wooded islands and peninsulars break the surface. If someone had painted it, you would dismiss it as "chocolate box". In life it is magical. And there is hardly anyone here on this gorgeous late summer day.

PS See the building in the middle. Just booked a table there for dinner. Will report back tomorrow.

Wednesday, 24 March 2010

Cabañas Cumelén


Tonight we are staying in some luxurious cabins by the lake. The owners, Mano and Lucia, cooked us an Asado. Their giant dog, Bilbo, looked on hopefully. Look at what our Cabin is called ....

Tuesday - Esquel to San Carlos Bariloche

Climbing off the windswept Patagonian plateau the tour gets up into the mountains. Scenary is alpine. The road twists and turns up the valley. "Built by a motorcyclist" according to Leo.

This is where the Argentinians come on holiday. Charming little towns with camping sites, hotels and cabañas - small, well furnished houses where you can stay self-catered. Then over the top and plunge down the other side, through sweeping turns and past wind ruffled lakes until we arrive at the holiday town of Bariloche. What a ride. Simply breathtaking.

Meet the Team - Part the Last

Finally, "El Jeffe".

 Leo Schultz is Compass's man leading the tour. He rides out front, talks his way through border crossings, fixes motorcycles and keeps the accounts. He does all of this with a smile on his face and a charming phrase.

Favourite phrase - "Let's make some clicks".