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Reflections in an Andean Lake

All good things must come to an end so that other good things can start.

When Graham and I planned this trip the trade off was between wanting to do something more adventurous than "66" but not having enough knowledge of bikes and Spanish to do it on our own. So we chose Compass. That was the right decision.

Local knowledge meant we visited some great places that we wouldn´t have seen otherwise (Torres del Paine, El Chalten). Mechanical expertise meant that when there was a breakdown, it got fixed. The back-up vehicle kept the weight of the bikes down and provided transport when things went less well.

Like all things in life it is the people who make or break things. The group was great. The guides were always positive and helpful (even when spending the evening in a hospital). The rest of the riders were good company, helped each other and shared tales over a beer or a glass of wine in the evening.

And Patagonia? Astounding.

The only question that remains is "Where next ?"

Sunday - Santiago de Chile

Flying back to the UK tonight so took a tour around Santiago. This is a really nice, very european feeling city. The day is warm and sunny and the people are friendly and helpful to a poor, limping gringo.

The team for the next leg is assembling at the hotel. Leo, Dani and Micho are joined by three more Compass crew including Mick (one of the owners). David and Scott are continuing on to Cuzco with them and there are two other clients. So the level of service should be even higher. Personal mechanics for each bike and someone to open the beers for you guys.

Jeff has left for Perth via BA after one last late night. Bruce and Muffy are Sydney bound. Terry and Pamela caught the early flight to Rio for some R&R before home. And Sigi? Sigi is catching the overnight bus back to Pujon to climb a volcano. Go Sigi!

Los Angeles to Santiago

Chile is a long thin country sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes.There is one main North South road, Ruta 5, which is also the Panamerican Highway.

Today we drove 500km along this straight flat, straight road to Santiago. From time to time there were short diversions to avoid bridges or bits of road damaged by the earthquake. Many of these are already patched up or are being permanently repaired. This is a major toll road. But that doesn't stop the locals riding their horses and driving their tractors down it.

Earthquake!

Three weeks after the quake things seen pretty normal here. But then they seem to be well prepared for them.

Friday - Pujon to Los Angeles

Winding north through the farming and timber growing areas of Chile. This is a neat, well ordered country. Parts of it could be Scotland, others could be Tuscany. The Land Cruiser is a bit fuller and slower today. Sigi's bike died at a fuel stop so it is loaded onto the trailer, he rides the 1150 and Micho joins Muffy, Dani and I in the truck. Stopped tonight just north of Los Angeles at a motel with rooms overlooking this 50m high waterfall.

Kit-tastic #2.4 - Arai Chaser Helmet

Great helmet. Available on ebay in Bariloche.

Sorry to say that while I was in the hospital someone stole it (and my gloves and riding trousers). So I couldn't have ridden even if I had been capable of it.

Kit-tastic #2.3 - Bander Green leg brace

It isn't painful but without the brace the knee just twists so I can't stand up.

Nice bit of kit!

Thursday - Bariloche to Pujon

Subtitle: V is for Volcano.

The morning started foggy as we drove out of Bariloche. The road climbed into the mountains until we reached the "Seven lakes drive", a dirt track past, you guessed it, seven lakes. Thick forest all around with steam rising where the warm sun hit the rich soil. We passed two hardy Brits who had ridden their push bikes from Ushuaia. How long? Two months. That's adventure.

Then out and down on good roads leading to the Chilean border post under the volcano. Every corner perfect for a bike but uninspiring in an aging 4X4. Just had to enjoy the scenery, the company and the cosmopolitan choice of music on the "Team Colombia" ipods.

D is for Dog

A dog is a mans best friend or so they say. I'm not so sure.

Argentinian dogs LOVE to chase motorbikes and have a taste for English ankles. So you are always ready with your feet to fend them off. This one had the body swerve of Tevez and the ruthless single mindedness of Maradona. Crossing in front of me to get to the other leg, he didn't see my front wheel about to cut him in two. I braked - front only (rear brake foot waving free to ward him off remember). Front wheel locked up. Waving foot went to the ground to stop the fall and...

The Spanish for Cruciate Ligament is easy to work out, but I didn't follow all the other details. Looks like I am going to be riding in the Land Cruiser for the rest of the trip. Massive thanks to Dani for translating at the hospital, to Sigi for cooking me dinner and to Bruce and crew for doing my restaurant review. Apparently it was excellent.

The most beautiful place in the world. Probably.

Bariloche is on a large lake which fills the valley. It is surrounded on all sides by high mountains. Some snow capped even now. In the lake small, wooded islands and peninsulars break the surface. If someone had painted it, you would dismiss it as "chocolate box". In life it is magical. And there is hardly anyone here on this gorgeous late summer day.

PS See the building in the middle. Just booked a table there for dinner. Will report back tomorrow.

Cabañas Cumelén

Tonight we are staying in some luxurious cabins by the lake. The owners, Mano and Lucia, cooked us an Asado. Their giant dog, Bilbo, looked on hopefully. Look at what our Cabin is called ....

Tuesday - Esquel to San Carlos Bariloche

Climbing off the windswept Patagonian plateau the tour gets up into the mountains. Scenary is alpine. The road twists and turns up the valley. "Built by a motorcyclist" according to Leo.

This is where the Argentinians come on holiday. Charming little towns with camping sites, hotels and cabañas - small, well furnished houses where you can stay self-catered. Then over the top and plunge down the other side, through sweeping turns and past wind ruffled lakes until we arrive at the holiday town of Bariloche. What a ride. Simply breathtaking.

Meet the Team - Part the Last

Finally, "El Jeffe".

 Leo Schultz is Compass's man leading the tour. He rides out front, talks his way through border crossings, fixes motorcycles and keeps the accounts. He does all of this with a smile on his face and a charming phrase.

Favourite phrase - "Let's make some clicks".

Let's do lunch ...

Every day around 1 o'clock we pull into a wind free spot and wait for the Land Cruiser to arrive. Dani and Micho unpack and with Leo's help prepare a full do-it-yourself sandwich bar. The food is delicious and welcome after a morning's riding. Subway need to watch out, "Team Columbia" sandwiches are coming to a town near you.

Croeso!

One reason for coming to Patagonia was the writing of two favourite travel writers. We have had Theroux so here is Bruce Chatwin on why the Welsh came here from his "In Patagonia". "Their leaders had combed the earth for a stretch of open country uncontaminated by Englishmen. They chose Patagonia for its absolute remoteness and foul climate; they did not want to get rich."

Trevelin is one of the Welsh settlements near Esquel. The country around looks just like the Black Mountains. I thought I was at Bron Haul.

Kit-tastic #2.2 BMW1150 GS

I promised a post about the bike. Now officially called "Swift Killer" after an encounter with an unfortunate small, black and white, insectivorous bird.

I took the option of the 1150GS rather than the standard 650. I've got a 1200GS at home and thought I could handle it. Let's just admit it. It is too big for me. It is too tall for me to touch the ground and it is too heavy for me to hold as soon as it gets off the upright. I have dropped it 6 times already (always when stationary) and have to rely on the kindness and patience of the team to help me lift it. Hubris - the pride that cometh before the fall. Or in my case, the drop.

On the plus side it is more stable in the winds, finds its way through gravel better and is 15km/h faster. That gives me the chance to stop for photos and then catch up. Or ride at the front with "Team Munro" and see the wildlife before they are scattered to the four winds by the bike pack. (Actually, there is only one wind - West - but it makes up for it in speed).

Would I swop it for the 650. No, as long as it is moving it is fine. It only hurts when I stop.

Monday - Perito Merino to Esquel

We are really getting north now. Today's 550 km took us up into the more populated part of Patagonia. It is hard to describe just how remote the south is. If you look on the map (see earlier post) you see settlements marked but these are often little more than a petrol station and a handful of houses. We passed through Rio Mayo today. It is capital of Chubut Province, one of Argentina's 10 or so adminsitrative regions. The town was a little bigger than Watlington with a similar range of facilities. Between the settlements there are the Estancias. Widely spread and each a handful of houses and farm buildings. Apart from that there is nothing. No truck stops, no little houses by the road, no electricity cables, no phone lines. Just the construction camps for the new road, the odd tour bus and us. For miles and miles. The first sign of any human habitation is a stand of poplars appearing in the distance.

The sky is huge and blue with bands of white cloud. You can see where General Belgrano found the inspiration when he designed the Argentinian flag. (One for all the Velixologists out there).

Kit-tastic #2.1

We love a nice bit of kit. (See route66.omega-prime.co.uk for earlier installments).

Last time debate raged over who had the best riding gear. Steve won in the wet but Graham scooped the prize with his mesh jacket in the deserts. This time Steve has a sure fire winner for all occassions - the BMW Rallye Pro 2 suit. Warm, water and wind proof but with ventilation options to cope with high temperatures (if we get them!). Throw in a clear topped map pocket on the arm, a water bladder and feed tube so you can drink while riding and a bum bag for other essentials. Surely the ultimate outfit for the discerning traveller.


PS Also pictured Steve's GS1150. Jury is out on this, more later.

PPS The suit and bike are being modelled here by Steve. See John, I am here and not just hiding in Oxfordshire.

Sunday - Estancia Angostura to Perito Merino

Longest day yet, 330km all but 120 of them off road. Some of the best riding of the trip. It will be the last year you can do it though. They are building a new two lane blacktop along the same route. We cross this from time to time as the dirt track zigzags along. The landscape here was planed flat by glaciers and polished by meltwater. The fields of pebbles give the road builders their raw materials. All they need do is scrape away the thin top soil, compact the stone and spread tarmac on top. Job done.

Pictured is our ageing support vehicle. "La Bestia" will welcome the new road even if the riders will mourn its passing.

Asado

Tonight at the Estancia the cooked us an Asado. Here's the recipe. Vegetarians look away now.

Go out on the Estancia and round up a sheep. Kill and gut it using your handy knife. (Every gaucho carries one all the time just in case). Spread the carcass on an iron grid and prop it next to an open fire for two hours. (See photo for correct placement). Serve with cold rabbit stew, salad, baked potato and lots of local wine.

... Estancia Angoustura

Todays ride finished here at the Estancia. A working cattle ranch in a hidden valley 4km from the road and 200km from the nearest settlement. 20,000 hectares of grass with 300 cows, 1500 sheep and a small lagoon complete with flamingoes and geese. Idylic but very windy and a long way from anywhere. You can see why Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid bought an Estancia near here to lie low when they had to leave the USA in a hurry

Saturday - El Chalten to ...

After a fantastic meal of fresh trout last night, it was hard to get up this morning for the ride. This next stretch has a bad reputation. The last group through got stuck in bad mud and took 8 hours to cover the 290 km. "El Jeffe" (Leo) had a crash here a few years back and woke up in hospital with a wrecked bike. So you can imagine it had reached epic proportions in the group mind.

It turned out to be fantastic. 110 km on good roads to a small petrol station. During which time we saw 1 other car. Then off road onto Ruta 40. Sweeping climbs and long straights through miles and miles of nothing. Just the odd Guanaco and lots of thorn bushes under a blue sky. The track had dried out and there was no mud, though you could see where it had been and were glad it had gone.

Friday - El Chalten

El Chalten means the mountain of smoke. It doesn't refer to a volcano but to the cloud that constantly forms around the summit of Mt Fitzroy. This picture taken in a brief break in the cloud. At 3600m high it is one of the hardest climbs in the world requiring 40 hours of rock and ice climbing without a camp site.

The town was founded in the 1980's to reinforce Argentinian claims to the area which has been disputed with Chile. It has a feeling of a frontier town but is rapidly growing to cater for the backpacking and climbing trade. Rest day today before we head on north up the hardest part of Ruta 40. The last south-bound trip a few weeks ago got stuck in deep mud on this bit so here's hoping for dry weather.

Thursday - El Calafate to El Chalten

Short day (250km) between the two National Parks. El Chalten is home to Mt Fitzroy. Named after the Captain of the Beagle and founder of the UK meteorlogical service. (Nice family connection Dad). No pictures of the ride today. We passed huge, bright blue lakes, ranges of low hills and herds of guanicos under wide skies. My little camera could not capture the scale and the magnificent sight of the high mountains is hidden behind the low cloud. Perhaps tomorrow.

STOP PRESS

The Munro boys have a blog too. With a unique Australian view of events - themunroexpedition.blogspot.com

Meet the Team - Part 5

Daniel and Mauricio (aka Dani and Micho) are "Team Colombia". Under the supervision of "El Jeffe" they drive the Land Cruiser, fix the bikes, make the lunch and help tired old bikers up hills. They also take lots of photos (see link to their blog below). Here they are taking photos of each other because they had enough pictures of icebergs. They are experienced adventure bikers in their own right having ridden a bike and sidecar across China among other things.

Wednesday - Glacier National Park

160km round trip from El Calafate to the national park which (not surprisingly) is full of glaciers. Took a boat trip to the face of this one to see it "calving". Great chunks of ice falling off the vertical face into the lake.

Welcome to Ruta 40

This is what it is all about. Ruta 40 is the main south- north road across Patagonia. The trip follows it north until we cross the Andes back into Chile. As you can see it is not all tarmaced. The gravel is well compacted in narrow strips where the cars and trucks have driven. If you follow these it is OK as long as no one comes the other way down the same track. Then it is time to get into the "loosey goosey" and find another way. Counter intuitively, you need to apply more power in the loose stuff to keep control.

Fill her up ...

Petrol is an obsession. We fill up at every town just in case the next town has none. After 2 days in the park messing about we were running low so stopped just before the border and roused the proprietor to give us a top up.

Monday - Torres del Paines to El Calafate

Up and packed early for the ride out of the park and down to the border. Exiting Chile is straight forward but the Argentinian customs hold us up. Some irregularities in the bike import papers. The picture shows the fierce guard puppy attacking Scot and Jeff. While we wait at the Chilean border the strong wind blows Dave's bike over and cuts a brake line. The bike is loaded onto the trailer and Dave is a passenger in the Land Cruiser until the bike can be fixed this evening.

UPDATE - Blog entries now sorted into correct sequence.

Hope it now makes a bit more sense.

Sunday - Torres del Paines

"Rest" Day.

This place is incredible. The Torres del Paine is a National Park and at the heart of miles and miles of open country are the "Torres" (Towers). This picture was taken from our campsite.

We hiked up to a bluff above the tents to see the Condor´s nest and then biked up gravel tracks to see Lago Grey (Grey Lake) where a galcier calves icebergs into the lake.

Monday - still in the park. Biked out East for an hour on rough dirt roads to climb up to see the Torres. Saw flamingos and guanicos (small llamas) on the way. 5 hours later I'm back in the valley. Didn´t make it all the way to the top. Left that to my compadres Seigfreid and Terry (both of whom have a few years on me) and "Team Colombia" Misho and Daniel. Terry and Seigfried saw a puma on the way up.

Saturday - Across the Straits

Cerro Sombrero to Torres del Paine National Park. The rain has stopped but the wind has arrived. It is ridiculous, 70 km/h with gusts forecast to 120 km/h. It is hard to stand up when we stop for petrol, let alone ride a bike into the headwind.

9:15 ferry across the Straits of Magelan. Force 4 to 5 but not enough fetch to make a really big sea. THank goodness it was wind with tide though.

Then 140 km to Puerto Natales for lunch where I managed to work out why the blog posts from the phone were not working. The Life Blog App on the phone has error messages almost as obscure as the bugs in this blogging software. Even my on-line tech support guy in Cambridge didn´t manage to fix one of my problems. Thanks for trying though Max.

Then 100km over gravel to the campsite in the Torres del Paine. We´re here for 3 nights

Meet the team - Part 4

Seigfreid is a retired teacher and all round adventurer. He has been travelling around South America since January.

Friday - Ushuaia to Cerro Sombrero

A good ride 200km across the southern mountains past a lake and then over the border into Chile. Then the tarmac ended and the rain started. It rained and rained and then when it couldn´t get any wetter it rained some more. 100km plus riding standing up (to deal with the potholes and gravel surface) with rain running down both arms. Luckily the heated hand grips worked so at least the water in the gloves was warm. The rest of the kit was fantastic so generally dry and warm though now with webbed fingers.

Everyone OK so far (haven´t been able to introduce you to the rest of the team - Terry and Pamela, room mate Seigfreid, our Colombian guides Micho and Dani and "El Jeffe" Leo - pictures to follow when better access).

Saturday takes us to the Torres del Pine National Park. No internet for 3 days. Another update when back in range.

Meet the team - Part 3. (Thursday - Ushuaia)

Ride out onto the Beagle Channel in a (motor) boat to see Sealions and then a familiarisation ride to the end of the world. The National Park here is the end of Ruta 3 and as far south as you can get by road anywhere in the world. It is all North from here.

Dinner was King Crab out of the shell. Fantastic flavour and a nice change from meat which seems to be the entire Argentinian diet. Bruce picked out a good Chardonnay. After several years running Australia´s largest wine maker, he is going to be a real asset on the trip.

Terry and Pamela here enjoying the sun on the ferry across the Beagle Channel. Terry is a mate of Bruce´s. Pamela is riding pillion.

Meet the team - Part 2

Wednesday 10th. By air from BA to Ushuaia.

"There is not much to say about aeroplane journeys. Anything remarkable must be disasterous, so you define a good flight by negatives; you didn´t get hijacked, you didn´t crash, you didn´t throw up, you weren´t late, you weren´t nauseated by the food. So you are grateful". Theroux hitting the spot again.

The Aussies on the trip take a more robust appraoch. Jeff told brother Dave that if Jeff and his father (Scott) started to panic during take off, then Dave should too. Jeff and Scott are both airline pilots. Good to have some experts along.(Dave, Jeff, Scott from left to right above).

Meet the team - Part 1

Miryana our guide in BA organised a "get to know you" meal last night. An ascaso or Argentinian barbecue. Not too many options for you vegetarians out there. Steak, lamb, chicken, liver, chorizo, tripe and cow´s udders. Basically the whole farm including the moo.

On the way back we passed this place so had to take a picture of Muffy (real name Dorothy) by the sign. Muffy is taking the sensible option and riding in the Toyota Land Cruiser while husband Bruce (yes, they are Australian) rides a bike. Nice to meet you Muffy and Bruce.

Came across this chap in the centre of BA. He is aiming to get into the Guiness Book of Records by being the first deaf mute to visit every country in the world on a motor bike. He set off in 2000 from Kiev and has been all round Europe, Middle and Far East, Australia, Africa and every state in the USA and Canada. He has just arrived in South America and plans a circular tour. He is on his second bike - a BMW. The first one was totalled in a crash. He appears to be supporting himself by asking for donations as he goes. Difficult to have much of a conversation divided as we were by language and his disability. The "Short Way Up" looks tame by comparison. I feel very humble all of a sudden.

Argentina: Home of the Tango.

After a stroll around the centre of Buenos Aires walked down to San Telmo for lunch. Plaza Dorega is the place to hang out and watch the dancing while you eat. After a few dances they passed the hat and then asked people at the tables if they wanted a go. A middle aged Austrian lady was sitting alone and got up to dance. To everyone's surprise she was terrific, knew all the moves and kept up with the male dancer right through the song. Perhaps she comes every day to practice!

It is better to travel hopefully than to arrive.

I am re-reading Paul Theroux's 'Old Patagonian Express' to get in the right frame of mind for the journey. It is about traveling to Patagonia by train from Boston (USA, not Lincs John!). Lots of things echo. Here's one. ".. travel - its very motion - ought to suggest hope. Despair is the armchair; its indifference and glazed, incurious eyes. I think travellers are essentially optimists, or else they would never go anywhere". Someone in another book I read recently (thanks Nick) when asked what he feared about death replied "Unsatisfied curiosity". Is that why we travel?

Hola Madrid

Up early this morning to get the 7:25 Iberia flight from Heathrow. 

Thank you Sue for the very early lift to the airport and sorry 
to Jinx for upsetting your routine. Flew over HCC as we climbed, 
so I gave you all a wave. Now in Madrid waiting for the flight 
to Buenos Aires. It is just starting to sink in that I am actually 
going on this trip! Scary and exciting.  

Say goodbye Steve

Logging off for the holiday. 10:00 on Sunday. All jobs done and all bills paid. All pigs washed and ready to fly. Here we go.

And they're off ...

Everything is packed and ready to go. Flight early Monday morning and then 24 hours in Buenoa Aires to debug any problems getting my mobile phone to talk to this blog. And a bit of site seeing too.

A word from Graham ..

"Diarios desenfrenados de Che Steve que trazan su odisea de la motocicleta de la Argentina con la conclusión de Chile y de Perú finalmente en Venezuela. Hay los diarios escritos por Che Steve durante su odisea desenfrenada de la motocicleta de la Argentina con la conclusión de Chile y de Perú finalmente en Venezuela. La mayor parte de el viaje fue emprendido en ' La Poderosa' , el de gran alcance: un 500cc Norton. La ruta de Che Steve no es ninguna campaña política: es seis meses del alto drama y de la comedia baja en los cuales las mayores preocupaciones de Che y de su socio que viaja son de donde la bebida siguiente está viniendo, de donde está ser encontrado la cama siguiente y que pudo ser alrededor compartirla. Esto es un diario por completo de las improvisaciones del laddish: la necesidad ganar el dinero en Chile donde hay un arrebato de los fuegos Steve alista mientras que reducen a un bombero a oversleep solamente como casa a las cenizas; él tira el perro de uno de sus anfitriones que temen que es un puma en el flojo; cuando está afectado penosamente con los calambres de estómago él se releva fuera de su ventana del dormitorio algo al detrimento de las bandejas de melocotones atormentados abajo. Esta narración de un viaje fuerte es libre de pompa y llena de vida.

Hizo que la vida de Steve no se convirtiera así que entrelazado en aventura revolucionaria éste habría sido ciertamente el viaje de un curso de la vida."

After all these years, Graham still surprises me. I never knew he spoke Spanish.

It's on ...

Just heard from the Compass chaps that they are safe and sound in Ushuaia. They don't expect any disruption to the trip. It is difficult to tell from here but most of the news reports from Chile are reporting a lot of damage along the coast which looks terrible. We will be away in land and it will be 2.5 weeks before we are in the area. I guess the calculation is that things will be more normal by the time we are there. We will need to stay safe, keep out of the way and not add to the populations troubles.

Compass also tell me that Daniel and Mauricio who are guides on the tour are keeping a blog. Is nothing in this world original? Still, if I can't post for some reason, perhaps they will.
http://ushuaia2cusco.blogspot.com/ (nice blog chaps)

Earthquake

Just heard on the BBC that there has been a big earthquake in Chile. The epicentre looks like it is not far from the planned route and Santiago was affected. Reports are just coming in so it is not clear how much injury and damage has been caused.

Not that it is important in the big scheme of things but I don't know what this means for the trip yet. Compass have a trip heading south from Santiago that set out on the 12th February so they should be well south of there by now.

Let's hope that they and the people of Chile and Argentina are safe and well.

Training

Some of this trip is going to be off road. I've never been off-road (well not intentionally) so I thought I'd better go and get some training. BMW run an offroad training centre in the Brecon Beacons so Mike and I went for the weekend (http://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/world-of-bmw/off-road-skills/level-one).
Great fun dashing round in the mud, up hill and down dale on BMW 650 and 1200 GSs. Absolutely fantastic for building confidence. The main thing I learnt was how to fall off gracefully and how to pick up a 1200 GS without putting your back out (12 times in one day). Thanks to everyone who was on the course that weekend. Ride safe.

P.P.P.P.P.P.P

Time to get ready:
- Vaccinations (Hep A, Typhoid, Tetanus). Check
- Passport. Check
- Visas (none). Check
- Driving Licence. Check
- Flights (Iberia via Madrid). Check
- Joining instructions (meet Miryana at "El Conquistador"). Check
- Kit.......

The Andes? On a Harley?

We are into nonsense but we did learn some lessons on "66". Harleys are great. In the dry. On blacktop. In a straight line.
This trip will be 30% on graded tracks so Compass use proper adventure bikes. BMW GSes. 600, 850 and 1150s.
So I got myself one to practice on. It meant saying goodbye to the Triumph but it is a much better bike for commuting up to London. And anyway, I love a nice bit of kit.

"Short Way Up"

Can't do the whole world this time. Just a bit of it. So might as well start at one end. As far south as you can get - the end of the world in fact. And head North.



View "Short Way Up" 2010 in a larger map

PS - I borrowed the title from a TV programme. Couple of blokes went on a bike trip. Apparently.

Compass: An instrument to show you the way

Bike Show 2008 - NEC Birmingham. We found the terribly nice chaps from Compass (http://www.compassexpeditions.com/). Lots of adventures, packaged for people who want to see the world on a bike but have to fit into real life.

"Bit too packaged? Bit organised? In a group? Is it really us?"
"How much do we actually know about South America? Can either of us fix a broken motorbike in the Andes? In Spanish? How do you get a bike to Buenos Aires?"
"Good point. And they seem like nice people. Lets go"

What's the story this time ?

Scene: Two friends sitting in a bar in California, thinking about Route 66 (see route66.omega-prime.co.uk for details).

Steve: What's next then?
Graham: Something with a clear route. Something more adventurous. But not dangerous. With beds and the odd beer. Somewhere new.
Steve: Have you ever been to Argentina?